Korean Retinol: 10 Best Products for Sensitive Skin/Beginner

iope retinol super bounce serum

Image Credit: @iope_official

If you're a retinol beginner with sensitive skin and you're scared of the dreaded purge, this article is for you: I'm a science writer and cosmetics marketer with 10 years of experience in Korean skincare and I've made it my mission to curate the most gentle K-beauty retinol products of 2024. For Western beauty brands, retinol is often the gold standard when it comes to treating a wide range of skin concerns like acne, the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone, and even dark spots.

Yet, K-beauty brands have only been warming up to the ingredient in recent years. While Korean formulators have been exploring the potential and stabilization of this potent anti-aging allrounder for decades, many people in Korea take a more preventative, gentle approach to their skin and have easier access to effective, yet low-cost in-clinic rejuvenating skin treatments. This makes using a harsh active like retinol all the less appealing to many Korean beauty consumers (Amore Pacific, 2020).

But now that K-beauty retinol formulas have evolved to become less irritating, nourishing even, I've seen more and more Korean retinol products being launched. I can't wait to introduce you to my top picks but first, let's make sure you understand the different retinol types and percentages so you can pick the perfect product for best results and minimal irritation. P.S.: Read until the end to find my favorite, fool-proof application tips that will help make your journey into retinoids as smooth as can be.

Disclaimer: This is an independent blog post that expresses my professional opinion as a cosmetics marketer. None of the mentioned brands compensated me for reviewing their products. I was not sponsored to write this post nor received or accepted any products/PR packages. All sources, especially the clinical studies and research articles mentioned, can be found at the end.

 

The Science Behind Retinol

Retinol Texture

Image Credit: iope_official

According to Harvard Medical School, retinoids (the synthetic form of vitamin A) are among the most well-researched anti-aging ingredients, with retinol as a retinoid derivative usually being used in over-the-counter/non-prescription cosmetic products (Harvard Health Publishing 2022). With studies dating back to the 1940s, cosmetic chemists have been exploring its impressive potential for skin transformations for decades (Lynch et al. 1947; Davidson & Sobel 1949; Mukherjee et al., 2006).

Vitamin A is also the first FDA-approved anti-wrinkle agent according to Zasada & Budzisz and how it works is unparalleled when it comes to skin repair and visible anti-aging results (2019). Once you apply retinol to your skin, it will not only stimulate your fibroblast cells to increase collagen production, improving the elasticity of your skin, but it will also help regulate your sebaceous glands, effectively fighting oily skin and breakouts (Zasada & Budzisz 2019).

 

Understanding Retinoid Types

Retinol Types

Image Credit: @iope_official

No matter the skin concern you're trying to target with retinoid products, let's make sure you have a good understanding of its types and different percentages. Don't skip this part, I promise, your skin will thank you later.

For your face skin to reap all the benefits of retinol, it needs to first be converted into its most bioavailable form, retinoic acid. This means you can understand these different types as stages: Retinol esters get converted into retinol, then into retinal, then turn into retinoic acid ester, to finally become retinoic acid (Igneri 2021).

While retinol esters are the gentlest type and a great choice for people with sensitive skin who are just starting to incorporate retinoids into their routine, some experts like medicinal and pharmaceutical chemist Sarah Babula are not fond of them because they don't have as many research studies backing up their efficacy. However, dermatologists like Dr. Shereene Idriss, also known as "Pillowtalk Derm", have stated multiple times that low-dose retinoids are still effective and that aside from their strength, starting with a gentler retinoid but using it consistently tops starting with a stronger retinoid that can potentially irritate your skin and scare you from using it regularly. The majority of creams, serums, and gels I'll be recommending are retinol products, with a couple of retinol ester, retinal, and retinoic acid ester products sprinkled in. 

Types of retinol listed from least irritating/less potent to more irritating/most potent:

 

Retinol Esters 

(least irritating/less potent)

Find them under the following terms in your ingredients list: retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate

Retinol

Retinol is easy to spot in your ingredients list as it simply goes by the term "retinol". As a cosmetic ingredient, retinol has a lot of research studies backing up its efficacy when it comes to visibly reducing signs of aging and acne just to name a few of its many benefits (Thierry et al. 2012); (Randhawa M. et al 2015). While I've seen more and more encapsulated K-beauty retinal products being launched recently, according to The Chemist Confessions podcast, the majority of studies on encapsulation technology (scroll down to this paragraph on encapsulated retinoids "Why Retinol Formulation & Packaging Matters") have been done on retinol (Shields et al. 2018); (Chmykh & Nadeau 2020); (Goudon 2020). 

Retinal

You can find retinal, the strongest, prescription-free retinoid that in terms of ingredient stability is more unstable than retinol, under the terms "retinal" or "retinaldehyde" in your ingredients list. If you're torn between a retinol and a retinal product, I highly recommend listening to this episode of The Chemist Confessions podcast where cosmetic chemists Gloria and Victoria debunk some of the myths and marketing claims around retinal. 

Retinoic Acid Esters  

This relatively new form of retinoid wins the prize for the most complicated name: Find it in your ingredients list under hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR). You will also see some brands refer to it as "granactive retinoid" which simply is the trade name for HPR. A 2021 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology also showed that HPR was more stable compared to other retinoids (Rakuša et al. 2021). According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman, HPR 's effectiveness when it comes to skin cell turnover, collagen stimulation, wrinkle, and acne improvement has also been proven in multiple studies (Igneri 2021).

Retinoic Acid

(more irritating/most potent)

This is the strongest retinoid also known as tertinoin and is only available with a prescription from your dermatologist of trust: While it will give you the fastest results, it also has the highest risk of irritating your skin. As retinoic acid is usually recommended for more advanced retinoid users, I won't be introducing any such products in this blog post. 

 

Demystifying Retinol Percentages

Retinol Percentages

Image Credit: @laneige_kr

While the percentage is one of the most important things to look out for when you buy your first retinoid skin care product, keep in mind the overall formulation and packaging because it can make or break the effectiveness of retinoids. But don't worry, I did that job for you by curating Korean retinol products that are as stable and well-packaged as possible.

Retinoid percentages can easily get quite confusing: According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of the first cosmetic dermatology textbook and the New York Times best-seller "The Skin Type Solution", each retinoid has its own potency and percentage. This means retinol 0.025% cannot be compared to a retinoic acid with 0.025% even if the percentages look the same as retinoic acid is a higher strength than retinol and therefore much more potent (Baumann 2023). 

So let's take a closer look at retinol percentages as the majority of the creams and serums I'll recommend today are retinol products. During my research, I found that how different beauty brands and dermatologists tier retinol percentages can vary. I found the categorization by Dr. Baumann the most helpful when shopping for gentle retinol products with low doses: 

 

0.025%:

Retinol with lower strength

Great for any retinol beginner


0.05%:

Retinol with medium strength

Perfect if you have experience with retinol and want to slowly start increasing your dose


0.1%:

Retinol with higher strength

Amazing if you're a more experienced retinol master looking to step up your game


Image Credit: @iope_official

Once we get to the product recommendations, you will see that brands vary and stray from these exact percentages above, so you will see percentages like 0.015%. Don't panic: Instead, taking this as an example, you can derive that this is an even lower concentration than the 0.025% I showed you as an overall guide for low-strength retinol. Let's take these percentages as an orientation: You will see that I also included slightly stronger retinal and retinoic acid ester products which mostly come at the concentrations of 0,2% and 0,1%. As we learned above, retinal percentages are stronger than retinol percentages even if they look the same. According to The Chemist Confessions podcast, the mildest retinal you will find is around 0.05% which is equivalent to a 0.1% retinol, the highest retinol concentration you will see me recommend here (The Chemist Confessions 2023). This should give you a bit of guidance when you're looking for retinoid percentages on your K-beauty products. 

You might be wondering: Lisa, what do I do if I find a K-beauty product where the brand doesn't disclose the percentage of retinol? As a cosmetics marketer, I sadly have to tell you that this happens more often than not. I wish (and hope!) that there soon will be more consistency when it comes to labeling retinol but until then, here's a general rule: If a brand doesn't state the percentage, it usually means that the retinol will be below 0.3% but when in doubt: Email the brand. Either way, you can rest assured that for all the products you see recommended here, I researched the proper percentages for you so you know exactly what you're getting in your retinol products. 

 

Picking Your 1st Retinol

  1. First need to pick a retinoid: If you're a retinol beginner, I suggest you start with a retinol ester or retinol product. 

  2. Then, you need to choose a percentage: I'd suggest you go with the lowest possible, as dermatologists like Dr. Shereene Idriss always recommend starting "low and slow" and consistently working your way up to a more potent retinoid. 

 

Retinol Formulation

& Packaging

How to apply retinol

Image Credit: @roundaround_official

If you've been browsing YesStyle or Olive Young on the hunt for K-beauty retinol products, you've probably seen that they come in various types of formulations. But did you know that the formulation actually affects how strong a retinoid is on your face skin? This is because the formulation influences how well the retinoid is absorbed into your skin. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, retinoid creams and lotions are on the lower spectrum of strength, while gels, serums, and ointments are generally on the higher strength spectrum due to their absorbent and occlusive quality. 

Let's talk retinoid packaging: Most dermatologists like Dr. Shereene Idriss and chemists like Sarah Babula prefer collapsible tubes made from aluminum or airless pump bottles and are not fans of retinoids in dropper bottles as the formula gets exposed to too much air. This can affect the stability of retinoids which are notorious for being unstable. A 2021 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology revealed that most commercially sold retinoid products had a much lower concentration of retinol due to stability issues (Rakuša et al. 2021).

When it comes to Korean retinol products, I found that it is becoming standard practice for formulators to use stabilized or encapsulated retinol, meaning the retinol molecule is cushioned by a carrier system of lipids or fatty acids which allows it to penetrate the skin before it is activated, making it more stable. Encapsulated retinol is not only great for any retinol beginner but also amazing once you're a more advanced retinoid user as encapsulation, according to Dr, Paula Morgan, helps enhance the effectiveness of retinoids (Versed). So keeping both of these aspects of formulation and packaging in mind, you'll see that the majority of the retinol products I curated are creams that come in tube packaging, with many of them using some form of encapsulating technology. 

 

My K-Beauty Retinol

Recommendations

You will find all of my K-beauty retinoid product recommendations here, organized starting from milder, less irritating retinoid types/lower retinoid percentages to more potent retinoid types/higher retinoid percentages. 

 

Retinol Ester Product

Theralogic RetinA Anti Wrinkle 3D Ampoule 

Image Credit: theralogic.co.kr

Theralogic RetinA Anti Wrinkle 3D Ampoule (0.3% retinyl palmitate + 0.01% retinol) 

This is one of the few retinol products I'll recommend that come in a serum dropper bottle but I wanted to include Theralogic's vegan retinol serum as it is one of the few K-beauty products formulated with a retinol ester. It contains 0.3% retinyl palmitate and a low percentage of retinol at 0.01%, making it a very gentle retinol beginner serum that fits even the most sensitive skin types. While I'm not a fan of its packaging for reasons I explained above (see previous paragraph), I appreciate that the brand opted for a dark bottle which they refer to as an "anti-oxidant container". 

One of my favorite features of this serum apart from its retinol ester is that it is formulated with triple-layer encapsulated retinol. According to Dr. Paula Morgan, encapsulation protects the retinol until it has reached beyond your skin's surface where it gets activated (Versed). Not only does this keep retinol stable but it makes it the perfect choice for beginners: According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Nancy Samolitis, because encapsulated retinol gets to work without irritating the surface of your skin, it's a great choice if you have breakout-prone skin that tends to get easily irritated and inflamed (Versed). Lastly, I also highly recommend this retinol serum as it comes enriched with 6 different peptides, as well as moisturizing ceramides that help nourish your skin.

 

Retinol Products

Image Credit: sg.innisfree.com

INNISFREE: Retinol Cica Barrier Defense Cream (0.015% retinol)

Let's kick off the retinol category with this gentle, light cream by Innisfree: It contains 500IU/g of retinol which can be translated to 0.015% retinol. Its low percentage and overall nourishing formulation make it a perfect pick for any retinol beginner or people with very sensitive skin whose moisture barrier tends to get out of balance easily. It has a gel-like texture and helps strengthen your skin barrier during retinol treatment thanks to Innisfree's Defense Cica™ formula with phytosterols (a plant compound) with anti-inflammatory properties, and soothing panthenol.

The sleek tube packaging, especially the precise nozzle, makes dispensing small amounts super convenient. While this is a gentle retinol product, always remember to not go overboard with the amount you apply by sticking to the application tips by my Gangnam dermatologist (scroll down to the very end). 

 

Image Credit: au.innisfree.com

INNISFREE: Retinol Cica Repair Ampoule (0.015% retinol)

If you would rather go for a Korean retinol serum than a retinol cream, let's have a look at Innisfree's retinol cica serum that in 2023 alone won a Glowpick, Cosmo Beauty, as well as Allure Best of Beauty award. Formulated with 0.015% retinol, it is the sister product of the above cream but is less focused on barrier repair and more focused on giving you that dewy glow without feeling greasy. This makes it a great fit for all of us oily, acne-prone girlies and boys who tend to have visible redness.

To cushion the irritating effect of the retinol, Innisfree used their trademarked Jeju Cica Liposomlogy™. This means you're getting an encapsulated retinol that is protected by lipids which help it penetrate your skin before it is activated to lower the risk of skin irritation. 

What I also appreciate about this serum is that it comes in an airless pump bottle instead of a serum dropper which protects the retinol from air and helps keep it stable. Texture-wise, I would describe this watery serum as hydrating and calming, as it also contains hyaluronic acid extracted from green beans, as well as green tea extract from Jeju Island. If your local K-beauty store of trust sells a slightly different-looking serum by the same name, don't be alarmed: Innisfree revamped their entire skincare and makeup ranges in 2023 giving it a minimal new look, that's why some of the older designs can still be seen popping up here and there. 

 

Image Credit: laneige.com

Laneige: Perfect Renew Youth Retinol (0.045% retinol)

Let's slightly step up your retinol game with Laneige's 0.045% retinol serum that not only got positive reviews from Allure readers in 2021 but was also a Self Beauty editor's pick. It's a mild, yet effective retinol serum that is enriched with tripeptide and 5D hyaluronic acid, a lighter hyaluronic acid often recommended for oily skin types. Another bonus point for this serum is that you can comfortably use it in your eye area, a delicate area not all retinol products are formulated for. 

Backed by decades of research by Laneige's mother company Amore Pacific, the packaging of this serum is top-notch: It comes in a specially-designed 7-layer aluminum tube and a patented three-step airtight container which effectively blocks light and oxygen from destabilizing the retinol in the formula. Off-topic but if you're a BTS army, this serum might also take your heart by storm thanks to this dreamy, light-purple packaging (it goes without saying that you should always choose a product for its formula, not its packaging haha). 

 
IOPE Retinol Expert Serum

Image Credit: us.aritaum.com

IOPE: Retinol Expert (0.1% retinol)

Not only did this serum win Allure's Best of Beauty Award in 2023 and take home Soko Glam's Best of K-Beauty Award in the retinol products category the same year, but this 0.1% Korean retinol serum has an almost 30-year-long formulation history: In 1997, Amore Pacific, the company which owns IOPE, managed to stabilize retinol using their dual coating method, only one year after French skincare brand RoC stabilized it for the first time ever.

Soon after, IOPE launched its first cosmetic retinol product which was certified for its wrinkle-improving qualities by Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. For the past decades, IOPE has been continuously upgrading its retinol stabilization technology and with this serum, you're getting something time-tested and truly innovative:

According to IOPE, this serum is formulated with what they call their trademarked Bio Cube Cell™ technology which helps lower the irritating and unstable nature of retinol. This means formulators have isolated the retinol in a net-like structure made from polymer, different antioxidants, and soothing ingredients like panthenol, giving you an effective retinol product with fewer side effects like redness, breakouts, or dry skin and sensitive skin. Also worth mentioning is the packaging: The sleek, precise tube applicator makes applying small amounts of the serum very convenient and it uses the same three-step airtight container packaging as Laneige to prevent oxygen from destabilizing the retinol.

 

Retinal Products

Dr. Different: Vitaacnal TX Night Cream

Dr. Different: Vitaacnal TX Night Cream (0.1% retinal)

This retinal cream is so popular with beauty creators that it won a Korea YouTuber's Award in 2020, as well as a Glowpick Award the same year. With 0.1% retinal it is the perfect pick if you have already tried retinol products, your skin has gotten used to it, and you'd like to increase your retinoid strength.

The bright yellow formula developed by Dr. Different's cosmetic chemists is marketed as being oil-free and well-fit for acne-prone skin. What I also appreciate about this cream is that it encapsulates the retinal using the brand's patented liposome technology and an airless tube that only reveals an opening once you apply pressure, protecting the retinal from oxygen and destabilization. 

 
CKD: Retino Collagen Small Molecule 300 Cream

Image Credit: u-buy.jp

CKD: Retino Collagen Small Molecule 300 Cream (0.2% retinal)

Another award-winning K-beauty retinal formula (2021 Glowpick Awards & Allure recommended) but this time in a slightly increased percentage of 0.2% retinal. To cushion this more potent cream, CKD decided to encapsulate the retinal using their trademarked flexible liposome™ technology and added ceramides and elastin to help smoothen your skin texture while you're getting used to the retinal. The formula also features amino acids like aspartic acid, as well as peptides which are supposed to help boost collagen production alongside the retinal. 

With 53% soluble collagen, as well as 1000ppm hydrolyzed collagen with a low-molecular size of 300 Dalton, this product joins in on K-beauty's recently increased love for collagen. Collagen supplements have been popular in Korea for years but I've seen more and more cosmetic products launched that claim collagen can help with pore size and skin plumping.

Many cosmetic chemists I've heard speak on collagen in skincare have stated that most studies have shown collagen was too large of a molecule to penetrate the skin. However, there have been some interesting studies conducted recently (keep in mind these are early studies and not directly related to this specific product) including one published in the International Journal of Nanomedicine which showed that collagen-loaded liposomes were able to penetrate the skin compared to collagen itself (Mingyuan et al. 2023). 

Whether this is reason enough for you to give this product a try is something you'll have to decide for yourself. Many of my Korean friends and their mothers swear by not only collagen supplements but collagen skincare products for best results and I personally have also been trying different topical collagen products that I found to be plumping and not problematic for my acne-prone skin.

 

Retinoic Acid Ester Products

Dr. Oracle Retino Tightening Ampoule

Image Credit: ebay.com

Dr. Oracle: Retino Tightening Ampoule (0.1% HPR)

This winner of Korea's prestigious 2023 Hwahae Award uses what many K-beauty brands refer to as "third-generation retinol", which is what I introduced earlier as hydroxypinacolone retinoate or short: HPR. This retinoic acid ester serum with 0.1% HPR does come in a dropper bottle which for the reasons I mentioned in our "Why Retinol Formulation & Packaging Matters" paragraph I'm not a fan of but the serum still managed to take Korean beauty consumers' hearts by storm. I would prefer if the brand opted for tube or pump bottle packaging but I probably shouldn't worry too much about retinoid stability here given that as we've seen earlier, in the 2021 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, HPR has shown to be more stable compared to other retinoids (Rakuša et al. 2021).

I was also a bit calmer when I saw that the cosmetic chemists at Dr. Oracle used their patented retinoid stabilization technology called "Dermatinol" which blends HPR with matricaria extract and antioxidant tocopherol to increase the serum's oxidative stability. To reduce possible retinoid irritation, they also added soothing ingredients like panthenol, green tea extract, and centella asiatica and enriched the formula with 0.04% adenosine which boosts collagen production and has shown promise in helping with wrinkle reduction (Marucci 2022). 

 
IOPE: Retinol Super Bounce Serum

Image Credit: @iope_official

IOPE: Retinol Super Bounce Serum (1 % retinol)

Remember IOPE's iconic Retinol Expert serum I showed just a few paragraphs ago? Time to introduce their latest innovation to you, because IOPE has not only been continuously researching how to make retinoids stable since 1997, but they also started experimenting with retinoid blends: Meet their Retinol Super Bounce serum that launched in 2023. Formulated with their "Retinol & Retinoid Quadruple Complex", this serum is definitely a more potent retinoid so if you have sensitive skin, proceed with caution and don't start your retinoid journey straight with this one. 

Let's unpack this retinoid blend a bit more: IOPE's formula features a mix of pure retinol, encapsulated retinol, granactive retinoid, as well as Bio-Seletinoid™, which, according to the brand, adds up to around 1% of retinoid strength.

You're already familiar with pure and encapsulated retinol so let's look at their trademarked Bio-Seletinoid™. According to IOPE, they've been researching this retinoid since 2015 and were able to show that it's not only effective for wrinkles but also for skin tone brightening (IOPE 2023). The granactive retinoid IOPE is using here refers to the newer retinoic acid ester hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) which is why I decided to add this multi-retinoid serum to this very category. To help strengthen your skin barrier and your skin's microbiome, IOPE also included fermented ingredients, as well as shea butter. The packaging is of course also top-notch given IOPE's decade-long experience with retinoids and features a pump bottle with their three-step airtight container to prevent oxidation or destabilization of the formula. 

 
Dr.G: Black Snail Retinol Ampoule

Image Credit: oliveyoung.co.kr

Dr.G: Black Snail Retinol Ampoule (waiting for brand feedback on retinoid %)

As it was impossible to find out the exact percentage for this best-selling serum even after researching for longer than I'd like to admit, I emailed Dr. G to find out the %. I'll add the info here as soon as they get back to me.

In the meantime, let's look at this serum's packaging and formula: I wanted to include it even though it has a serum dropper which in terms of retinoid packaging I'm not happy about due to the potential stability and oxidization issues mentioned in our "Why Retinol Formulation & Packaging Matters" paragraph because of Dr. G's interesting formulation approach. Not only does this Korean retinol serum feature retinol and the newer retinoid Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) but it also comes with 34% black snail secretion filtrate known for its anti-inflammatory and skin repair properties, which I could imagine quite helpful when using more drying ingredients like retinol and HPR. This serum also comes with Dr. G's antioxidant complex featuring idebenone, peptides, collagen ferulic acid, and tocopherol. As it contains two different types of retinoids, I would recommend this to any retinol beginner who either is not breakout-prone or has dabbled in retinoids a bit and wants to step up their skincare game ever so slightly. 

 

Application Tips as a Retinol Beginner

(from my Gangnam Dermatologist)

  • Buffer your retinol with a moisturizer aka make it the last step of your night-time skincare routine to avoid irritation.

  • Skip the entire mouth and chin area as this often leads to shedding. 

  • Apply retinol on dry skin, never to a wet/freshly moisturized face.

  • Start low and slow with once/week and gradually increase when you feel your skin can handle more.

  • When you're first starting, do not use more than a rice grain-sized amount for your entire face and then slowly increase it to a pea-sized amount: Less is more when it comes to retinol products.

  • If you have extremely reactive, sensitive skin, use even less and patch test on an area of your face where you don't tend to breakout or use the short contact method: apply, let it sit for 30 minutes, wash off.

  • Before you introduce retinol products into your routine, make sure you do not currently use any other actives such as vitamin C (Yes, vitamin C and retinol products go great together but my dermatologist always told me to only introduce other actives once my skin was more comfortable with the retinol.)

  • Don't exfoliate on the very night you use retinol.  

  • Once you start using retinol products, take extra good care of not just applying sunscreen every single day no matter the weather but religiously reapply it every two hours if you're exposed to direct sunlight.

  • Avoid slugging on the night when you apply retinol (slugging: Putting a thin layer of vaseline as the last step of your skincare routine; not recommended as it can intensify the effect of retinol which you don't necessarily want as a retinol beginner).

 
Lisa Kirmsse

Lisa is a Cosmetics Marketer & Science Writer with 10 years of experience in curating Korean skincare. When she isn’t taking care of Eucerin’s global brand messaging, she’s researching K-beauty's latest launches and Seoul’s places to be for The Skin Special blog and podcast.

Sources

Amore Pacific: Beauty Research & Innovation. The Latest Stabilization Technology of Pure Retinol. (2020)

Harvard Health Publishing: Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? (2022)

Lynch, F. & Cook, C. Acne vulgaris treated with vitamin A. Arch Derm Syphilol. 1947;55(3):355–357. doi:10.1001/archderm.1947.01520030048006

Davidson, D. & Sobel, A.: Aqueous vitamin A in acne vulgaris. J Invest Dermatol. 1949 Apr;12(4):221-8. PMID: 18120701. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18120701/

Mukherjee S. et al.: Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. 

Zasada, M. & Budzisz, E.: Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019 Aug;36(4):392-397. doi: 10.5114/ada.2019.87443.

Sarah Babula TikTok Channel

Igneri, Jenna: The Ultimate Guide To Understanding The Hierarchy of Retinoids. (2021)

Baumann, Leslie: Understanding Retinol Percentages and Retinoid Strengths. (2023)

Dr. Leslie Baumann website

Dr. Idriss aka Pillowtalk Derm: Website/Shop & TikTok

Rakuša, t. et al.: Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jul;20(7):2350-2358. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13852.

Shields CW 4th et al.: Encapsulation and controlled release of retinol from silicone particles for topical delivery. J Control Release. 2018 May 28;278:37-48. doi: 10.1016/j.jconrel.2018.03.023.

Versed: A Guide to Encapsulated Retinol and What it is

Versed: Need-to-Know Skin Advice from 11 Dermatologists We Love

Allure Best of Beauty Awards 2023

The Chemist Confessions podcast: Retinal: Is it better than retinol? (2023)

Chmykh YG & Nadeau JL.: Characterization of Retinol Stabilized in Phosphatidylcholine Vesicles with and without Antioxidants. ACS Omega. 2020 Jul 10;5(29):18367-18375. doi: 10.1021/acsomega.0c02102. 

Goudon F. et al.: Controlled Release of Retinol in Cationic Co-Polymeric Nanoparticles for Topical Application. Cosmetics. 2020; 7(2):29. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020029

Randhawa M. et al.: One-year topical stabilized retinol treatment improves photodamaged skin in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial. J Drugs Dermatol. 2015 Mar;14(3):271-80. PMID: 25738849.

Thierry et al.: A Placebo-Controlled Study Demonstrates the Long-Lasting Anti-Aging Benefits of a Cream Containing Retinol, DihydroxyMethylChromone (DMC) and Hyaluronic Acid. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications. (2012). DOI:10.4236/jcdsa.2012.22012

Mingyuan, Li. et al: Preparation, Characterization and ex vivo Skin Permeability Evaluation of Type I Collagen-Loaded Liposomes. International Journal of Nanomedicine (2023), 18:1853-1871. https://doi.org/10.2147/IJN.S404494

Marucci G. et al.: The possible role of the nucleoside adenosine in countering skin aging: A review. Biofactors. (2022) Sep;48(5):1027-1035. doi: 10.1002/biof.1881

IOPE History (2023)

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